It's terrible. (AVX). You're sour grapes man, you wish it were you who wrote the article. don't get me wrong; this lens will take great photos, but the 'flatness' i was getting in my photos nearly had me give up 25 years of hobby photography. But the Rokinon f/2 version fits into a different market. f1.4 was a necessisty rather than a creative luxury. As the reader reviews below testify, this is an absolutely stellar lens, probably one of the sharpest and most distortion-free that Canon makes. It's tiny compared to almost everything else in the 85-135 range, and used properly, it can produce results that hold up to my DC (all other factors being equal such as subject distance, f-stop, lighting, etc.). The following image was captured by Eric Cauble using the Samyang branded version of this lens. To me it is a dead spot between 85 and 200. Otherwise I might not achieve focus? I have a vintage Nikon135mm f/2.8 AI-s which produces virtually the same bokeh and weighs a quarter of this or any other 135mm AF lens. if you really want to get the best gym photos that can be taken, use it and enjoy what you will see. Digital sensors are roughly 5 times as sharp as 400-speed film. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. From my purchase research, I found a consensus that stopping down optimizes sharpness but the diaphragm will make nine diffraction spikes when stopped down. It always happens to me with Samyang, it makes good glasses, fast and sharp, I want to have them, but they are not comfortable to use, not in Sony E, their focus is not precise, and they are not "so" cheap. in the rain. And you can even crop a 135 efl with today's sensors should you actually need it. So, for Joe User or especially for Jane Client, one really has to look closely to see much of a difference. Lots of older lenses no longer satisfy. The image is a 90-second exposure at ISO 400 using a Canon EOS 60Da. 6 Reasons I Love the Canon 135mm f/2 Lens - YouTube thanks for the write-up.. i just got this lens and have just been trying it out. I do not presume to further decorate the universe, and perceive them for what they are: interference. We always expect to see some drop in performance (particularly corner sharpness) when we move from testing on a sub-frame to a full-frame camera, but the 135mm f/2L turned in a really remarkable performance even at full-frame. If I got this lens, would it make more sense long term to get the Canon mount with a E mount adaptor so I could fit it more easily to a dedicated astro camera later? IS would also help outside with wind. The logic of this article can be applied to a 200/2.8 as well. The Canon is about as sharp as the Samyang, but it has some very slight chromatic aberration. For some reason Samyang makes lenses nobody is asking for. This is huge for me, as it allows me to be much more nimble with getting the right composition and angle. To shoot indoors under typical gymnasium lighting, you often need f/2.0 or wider to get a shutter speed high enough to stop the action. Also, when used as recommended, and properly guided at full camera resolution, they are all comparable to a field-corrected APO, producing perfect images from edge to edge which can be easily cropped 25% with no evidence of aberrations. But you are talking more than 2x crop (cut half by width and height) and that leaves you to twice smaller resolution == quarter of the Mpix count. MCovington, my Zeiss 300/4 is the full thickness barrel version, made in West Germany, serial number 5990836. (purchased for $900). This looks to be an excellent lens with fantastic results. It turns out that this. Amazing for portraits, easily fast enough for indoor sports. But she might as well be in front of a green screen. (Dpreview), Use the 500 Rule to find the Perfect Exposure Length for Astrophotography, Use a DSLR Ha Filter for Astrophotography, AstroBackyard | Astrophotography Tips and Tutorials2023, Optical Construction: 11 Glass elements in 7 Groups. When I was teaching photography in 70's at a junior college, I critiqued students photos, but I never did so harshly. Some real life images from my photoblog: http://hellabella.de, One of the best and sharpest lens around. It's not the most versatile lens, but it's very great for tight portrait shoots; background blur is creamy IMO; one of the best 'bokeh' lens. BTW, the 300-mm Tele-Tessar you describe -- what camera was it made for? Holiday Savings $50 . It would seem to be a better use of a camera to first look for a suitable background, and then and only then to use bokeh. Given the spot on DPR front page, lots of 'what-lens-should-I-buy' newbies will be spending their money on this one. For posed portraiture, it's a very nice budget option.FWIW, I'm a corporate portrait and event pro. I'll take photo of Orion as soon as possible. Without the blurb I would have taken it as a 24 hour news studio shot with back projection or a cut and paste layer.The other stuff is really nice though. Bokeh == Visual character of the lens optics to render light and color mixing together. The Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM Lens makes an excellent indoor sports lens. I have just acquired my astrophotography set up thanks to all your videos and doing some research. In this configuration, the lens is still a very fast F3.4. Dear Trevor, Widefield Astrophotography with the Samyang 135mm f/2 Lens The combination of a wide aperture and very little light lost in transmission makes very high shutter speeds possible. You won't get the excessive background blurr -- which for the beginning photographer may actually be a good thing. Best lenses for astrophotography: 50, 85 and 135mm - DSLR, Mirrorless & General-Purpose Digital Camera DSO Imaging - Cloudy Nights Cloudy Nights Astrophotography and Sketching DSLR, Mirrorless & General-Purpose Digital Camera DSO Imaging CNers have asked about a donation box for Cloudy Nights over the years, so here you go. I almost bought one, but couldn't manage that focal length and DoF with moving subjects and manual focus. You are entitled to your opinions, and I respect that! never mind.. confirmed from others that F19 is indeed the one that is excluded on this lens! A Bargain, very competively priced you can see here a lot of photos mostly shot with the f/4 version. 200mm Astrobin photos (not taken by me): https://www.astrobin.m USM F2.8 L II So so far the best that I have used are the 200f2.8L and the 400f5.6L. Target for bortle 9 astrophotography? - Beginning Deep Sky Imaging Asahi Optical's Pentax KX was one of the first cameras with this lens mount, acting as a midrange model in the lineup. Tiring. That's a cheap, fun date for AP. One thing I am most stun is its AF performance. There are, of course, outlierssuch as the legendary unicorn lens Canon EF 200mm F2but that one isn't a great alternative unless you are cool with spending $5,700 and carrying around something about as wieldy as a fire hydrant. Whatever lens you pick in the end, you will make a great purchase. BirdDog P240 40X NDI PTZ Camera. Its a no brainer if you use this focal length. In fact, it might be fun to try! Stage photography is another good use for the 135 L. I wanted to add my experience with some lenses that I thought worthy of being considered too, and some of the equipment that I have used. It is fantastically sharp, can make beautiful blurred backgrounds and bokeh, and is both light and inexpensive for what you get. If you don't like that article that's your right as a member. I just love the lightning fast & accurate focus of this lens. In the highest contrast situations there's a hint of both purple and green fringing but both are minor and easy to remove with software. This creates an effective focal length of roughly 200mm, a useful magnification for a wide variety of astro-imaging scenarios. It is the lens I use as a reference point to compare all new lens acquisitions to after purchase to determine if they need to be returned for repair or replacement. the lens is built strong, very strong. The Andromeda Galaxy using the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC lens. You got a criticism fine say it politely, and too the point. The best of them, Nikon's 70-200E, is just as sharp all but the very best primes - ie, already too sharp for most portrait work. Sure, the Nifty 50 is an incredible value (and a LOT cheaper), but the 135mm puts you within range of some of the best astrophotography targets in the night sky. We've combed through the options and selected our two favorite cameras in this class. So I sold it for nearly what I bought it for and chalked it up to a learning experience. Ive set the f-stop to F/2.8, to sharpen up the stars a bit. I seems many people he are confused about the meaning of the word. Thanks to you I got a Rokinon 14mm f2.8 and a 24mm f 1.4 and am considering this lens at the moment, but wonder how it compares to the Canon 135 mm f/2. This is perhaps because I'm more of a zoom guy (I have the trio of Canon f2.8 L zoom lenses, with coverage from 16mm to 200mm), and I didn't see that big a difference between my 70-200 f2.8 and my 135 f2except I could cover a lot more with my zoom than I could with a prime. If you are a Nikon user, of course have a look at the Nikon AF Nikkor 135mm f/2D DC and compare it to the other lenses mentioned in this article. When attached to a DSLR camera with a full frame sensor, the lens offers a massive 15.5 x 10.6 field of view, or 18.8 across the diagonal. Touching the telescope, even ever so slightly, will introduce vibrations which will ruin the photograph. My 24-70L needs to be stopped down to f5.6 to begin to match the sharpness of my 135L at f2.0 (the test shots were of the portrait of Andrew Jackson on a $20 bill). I cant wait to try this lens out during the winter months on some wide-field targets in Orion. The 135mm focal length is absolutely perfect for the Heart and Soul Nebulae if youre using a crop sensor DSLR camera. Also, accurate guiding is essential. f/2, fast-accurate-silent focus, (relatively) small & light, super sharp!! But this lens changed my mind. For those of you that like to pixel-peep, have a look at the single image frame captured using the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC at F/4. To prevent damage to the lens finish, apply nylon acorn nuts (or cap nuts) to the tips of the retaining ring's three alignment screws. The Rokinon 135mm F2.0 is considered to be a full-frame lens because it can accommodate a full-frame image sensor with its 18.8-degree angle of view. Show some humility and don't troll. Could use a few updates. Sigma 105/2.8 DG EX Macro (very sharp at infinity) Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM Review - Imaging Resource Not only does the Rokinon 135 add additional reach, but I can also now shoot at F/2, instead of F/4 on the Canon. We take OM System's new 90mm prime F3.5 macro lens out and about around Seattle, in search of sunlight, people and very tiny things to get up close and personal with. Here is a recent ones taken with the canon xs and a lens. modest cost for "L" series, wonderful optics and fast speed, nitpicking, but not a circular aperature and no weather sealing. My guidescope is a 5in F5 Jaeger's achromat with a 2.3x Barlow, and a 9mm illuminated reticle eyepiece. The model I use feels solid and the barrel is constructed with metal. Please ride off on the same horse you rode in on. Several days ago another member posted a stunning telephoto image of the Snake Nebula, Barnard 72, taken with a Canon lens which costs $12,000. A camera tracker (or star tracker) is necessary for long exposure deep-sky astrophotography, but a compact model such as the iOptron SkyTracker or Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer will do just fine. The screws should be set sufficiently tightly to prevent shift, yet not so tightly as to interfere with fine focusing. All of them are extremely sharp and produce mouth-watering bokeh, and all of them are reasonably priced for what you get. Rokinon FE14M-C Lens. I understand the optical design is quite old. But I hardly used it in the 30+ years. But for many of us, somewhere in between, are plenty of short to mid-tele lenses that will deliver solid service (in terms of subject separation) without carrying around still another kilo for the sake of more blur. This new, affordable wide zoom for L-mount is capable of some excellent landscapes. I stopped reading after the part where someone I don't know told me I "should" be doing something. Barney and Chris have been shooting the new Sony 50mm F1.4 GM, and we have a bunch of full resolution samples for you to peruse. Just like the above samples, most are just bad. I'm thinking a modern (but expensive) Nikon 200mm f/2.0, 300mm f/4 or f/2.8 or a Borg telephoto/telescope would all be very good. Sme of the wide field are. +1 for the 135mm lens. Over the last ten to fifteen years excellent apochromatic telescopes have become available for visual use and photography. Rokinon 135mm f/2.0 ED UMC Lens (Canon EF) - B&H Photo This is a very practical way to plan your next astrophotography project, and especially handy when using a wide field lens like the Rokinon 135mm F/2. Above $2500 cameras tend to become increasingly specialized, making it difficult to select a 'best' option. The APO showed no chromatic aberration at all with the addition of the Astronomik UV/IR cut clip filter (passing 380-680nm), but the telephoto lenses, even when stopped down, showed a tight bright red ring around all stars. I also tested 200 f/2.8 tele and it is one of the most perfect lens in existence, as well as the 135. But ppl should know there is much better advice in the forums. When stopped down to 37mm, at F5.4, it also produces perfect, small and round star images across the entire field. There is some controversy about the use of UV filters, but I found that a good UV filter significantly improves contrast, sharpens small star images, and reduces chromatic aberration. Sony has added a full-frame 50mm F1.4 prime to its premium 'GM' range of E-mount lenses. Preaching to the choir! I have the Sony SaL 135F1.8 Zeiss Lens and think that is excellent. In fact, in my test shots, I noticed that the red channel was a little softer than green and blue. Today I want to talk about another such lens design: The 135mm F2 lens. Yep the speed wars in the 70's that gave us all these bokeh monsters were all about the fact that its hard to get usable images in poor lighting when your film was stuck at iso 80 (or even 400 when you were pushing it). But I sold it and went back to using a 70-200 (alongside a 24-70). In an effort to save money, Id like to start using a Canon 80D that we already own to start picking targets and imaging. Orion's Belt : r/astrophotography - reddit.com I've missed shots at wide apertures because the DOF is so extremely thin. Nevertheless, it performs excellently on most star fields, and is too cheap not to acquire. So I feel I'm being cheated. At f/32, it's pretty soft, but less so than a lot of lenses at that aperture. OM System's latest lens is a whopper of a macro, featuring optical stabilization, full weather sealing, up to 2x magnification and a whole lot more. My Nikon focus and aperture rings are a thing of highly finessed engineering beauty! Deserves to be in the camera hall of fame. If you're using or are looking to buy the Samyang or Rokinon 135mm F/2, please let me know what you're imaging with it or any questions you may have in the comment section below. Exterem apertures are extrems (wether it's full open or closed) that should be reserved for extrem cases. Unfortunately it is not manufactured in a multicoated version, and produces prominent internal reflection artifacts on very bright stars. $218.00 for 7 days. Youll never have to worry about losing your position just by touching the lens, but you can always tape the position down to be sure. Rokinon 135mm F/2 Lens for ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY - YouTube Released only weeks apart, the Sony 50mm F1.4 GM and Sigma F1.4 DG DN Art are clear competitors. Otherwise, on FF body this lens is wonderful. My first shot was a section of the constellation Sagittarius that included the Lagoon Nebula, and Trifid Nebula. I took a few shots with the lens on my way home after buying it. Build quality: excellent. The image below highlights the creative freedom this lens provides. We've selected a group of cameras that are easy to keep with you, and that can adapt to take photos wherever and whenever something memorable happens. There are a lot of photo/video cameras that have found a role as B-cameras on professional film productions or even A-cameras for amateur and independent productions. Perhaps this impression of unreal sharpness is strengthened by the contrast to the extremely creamy bokeh you typically get in the same photo. i too use the 135mm nikkor[ with a MB speed booster on fuji x for outstanding separation], also a samyang 85 mm 1.4 nikon mt with speedbooster also gives excellent separation, yes, I think I have read that the old Nikkor 135mm f3.5 was even sharper than the f2.8. This article was originally published on Micael's blog, and is being republished in full with express permission. I've owned a few L lenses and while their USM motors have always been quick to snap in focus, this 135mm is on a different level. fast, sharp wide open, excellent bokeh, value for money, very fast, sharp, gorgeous background blur, world class lens. Rudy, why didn t you include any L lenses from canon? From far to near, the AF is instantaneous. The downsides of this configuration are that shooting wide open can make focusing difficult. What I see is a photographer who should maybe instead stick to the kit lens, and learn composition first. Have you ever come across this phenomena? There have been a lot of Tele-Tessars over the years. I'm not a fan of the large hood. As I posted on the Petapixel variant of this article, cropping a 85/1.4 shot to a 135mm-equivalent FoV gives you approx. All content, design, and layout are Copyright 19982023 Digital Photography Review All Rights Reserved. It's Film Friday, so let's take a look back at the film format that gave APS-C sensors their name! They seem to be really good for NB work. If you buy a nifty fifty or a 100mm macro lens you simply cannot go wrongyou will get a great and handy lens for your money, with great image quality. The image below was captured using a DSLR and 135mm lens on the Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer mount. Astrophotography is one of the ultimate tests of lens quality, as long exposure photography of deep-sky objects in space can highlight issues that are hidden during daytime photography. It is good to know that the 200/4 SMC Takumar is good. wew.. Some noteworthy targets to try. The EOS R6 II arrives in one of the most competitive parts of the market, facing off against some very capable competition. Canon EF 135mm f/2 L USM lens. How good it is? - Cloudy Nights The second best, is the Hoya Pro One Digital MC UV(0) filter. I also find the other photos not very good. Nice image, andysea. @ Juksu - you're pathologically clueless. You will never be able to beat this lense, believe me, i have tried them all. Focusing should be done on moderately bright stars using the 10x magnified Live View. This lens is available for several camera mounts, including Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Samsung, and Fuji. Hate these presumptuous kinds of articles and headlines. I therefore reduce the aperture at the front end of the lens (as an aperture stop) by screwing in a series of step-down rings into the filter thread. I do not use burst mode, but the lens would produce movie-like frames. For some objects a reflection can take away from the photo because it covers interesting details of the object (Think Alnitak in the Horsehead Nebula). You can barely tell it's a pond.#3: Duck.Birds with bokeh are fine. However, they can be perfectly corrected with narrow band H-alpha or OIII filters. When coupled with my Canon DSLR camera, the entire system weighs just over 3 pounds. In between interviews with executives of the major companies, Dale Baskin took to the show floor to bring you this report. Sharp but smooth at the same time. Are you really using 135 a lot? No, Mr. Again, there's no context. Best lens for portraiture I've ever tried. Mr Ericsson makes a very good point, and to go and dig irrelevant background info on him to discredit him is just well THAT is trolling. Ive spent a handful of nights testing this lens in my Bortle Scale Class 6/7 backyard, and my results live up to the hype it gets in terms of astrophotography performance. Backwards compatible (film). After weeks with a production Fujifilm X-T5, Chris and Jordan have some final thoughts. There are a total of 8 stops actually written on the lens. Trully sharp accross whole frame from f2 on 5d. I just wish this lens had IS for low light and portraits with flash. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. (purchased for $700), reviewed October 9th, 2012 Explore the sky, try frame some targets and see what works well with your DSLR and lens combination. Available Monday. If you want the best value possible for your money, and can survive without autofocus, buy the Samyang. Do I wish it were manufactured with metal? Testing on an EOS-5D, we see that it's sharpness is almost as good wide open in the corners as on the EOS-20D with its smaller sensor. Although this lens feels solid, it is rather light when compared to a telescope. I actually have to walk 1/2 way up the stairs to be able get folk in the frame. Its a trade-off, and one that seems to surface time and time again in this hobby. thank you for that great review and also the explanations. At under 900USD, it's a steal. What you need to know is the author is a hobbyist and hands his images over to px500, the bottom of the barrel so of course he is impressed, he doesnt use top flight gear day in, day out to earn his pay. With weather sealing this would be a 10. Its actually kind of neat to watch! Instead it means the style of rendering. Does this work well with any of the 1.4x / 1.7x / 2.0x Teleconverters (extenders / barlows)? By far the best one is the Tiffen Haze 2 filter. You can't really ask them to stand still while you move around. When I got home and loaded the photo into Lightroom I was blown away by two things. PRICE. I was expecting a lot more of an article that says "the best telephoto lenses for astrophotography". (37% is difference, so you get little more, about 15.5Mpix) ". With a rounded 9-blade diaphragm, shallow depth of field imaging will be rendered with pleasing out-of-focus highlights. Perhaps it's not a big thing, but for a L-graded lens this feature should be expected. Whereas quality apochromats can be corrected with broad band filters, such as the Astronomik UV/IR cut filter or the CLS-CCD filter, telephoto lenses can not. But If you want the "look" you get with a medium telephoto at f/2, hen all those negatives become irrelevant. The finish and texture of the Rokinon 135mm F/2 is a step up from the 14mm F/2.8 I ordered a few years ago. Heh, it's amazing how far Samyang has come since this article (I'm loving their 45 & 75 f1.8), and kinda amusing that they ended up delivering exactly what you asked for Kinda reminds me of that article by Roger Cicala about how long lens development takes. Also, when shooting the heart nebula, is the sky tracker a must or not required? Well, for me. If you aren't completely set on the 135mm, the 200mm f/2.8L is a fantastic lens and i think its less expensive than the 135mm f/2L. $581.00 for 7 days. Image quality is great, it is tack-sharp wide-open even though for partraiture, a little bit of softness is needed. Another lens to consider at this focal length (at maximum zoom) is the Rokinon 135mm F/2. Manual focus on wide angle lens, for landscapes, ok, if you have a reliable manual focus system, which Samyang, at least in my mount, does not have. Be careful with the focus. One difference worth pointing out is for those who image using narrowband filters. Another drawback is the focal length. The CA is pretty low wide open and it rivals my 200mm L lens. He has quite a breadth photos many of which are quite good. Beautiful portrait lens. No rubber sealing against the camera body tend to give me the creeps when shooting in the wet. Can I assume that this article applies only to full frame & not to micro four thirds? (purchased for $845), reviewed November 16th, 2005 While they provide a very large flat field we noticed some CA. EF-mount only, this packs more megapixels, a bigger sensor, and a high max ISO. It allows to push your main subject matter into abstraction wide open and get very detailed images stopped down. Nice article for beginners.It's all in the eyes of the beholder. IQ will rival any other lens. But that 10Mpix is more than enough to make a very good A3-A2 size print, but your technique needs to be very good as even slight misfocus is even more visible and the rendering faults as well. Rokinon lenses are made in Korea, and so is the Samyang variation. I think youll find that this lens is behind some of the most amazing wide-field astrophotography images online! Whos Afraid of a Phantom: Istar Phantom 140mm F/6.5, that is? Of the 150 images I considered fit to publish, only 4 were made with the 135. This leaves you with a buttery bokeh and an object in perfect focus. People mistake "Bokeh" to blurry background, what is very very common mistake. Due to the weight, at times I didn't move my shooting position and just zoomed to a composition that worked. (purchased for $1,100), reviewed August 12th, 2009 However, all the reviews were made by nature and sports photographers, and I would like to find out more about their performance in astrophotography. Contrasty but not harsh. Love the shot of the blue anemone, which also displays nice bokeh, and blur! However, when my Canon "L" lenses are used at f8 they are all very sharp and the 135L does not blow the others away. Great reach for street shots. All of them are extremely sharp and produce mouth-watering bokeh, and all of them are reasonably priced for what you get.". (purchased for $890), reviewed October 21st, 2005 Stopping down would actually have improved the picture. But first, there are several general rules which must be understood. the EOS-clip filters are compatible with all EF lenses but not with the EF-s. Besides, adding IS would mean adding extra elements and that would very likely reduce the image quality. Also, the newer and much more expensive 200mm F4 SMC Pentax with the K mount is decisively inferior, showing small but annoying red chromatic aberration.
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